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A Luwak lies curled up in a grey pipe and looks into the camera

Amed - Ubud with coffee plantation and Luwak

In a yellow car from Amed to Ubud: Bakpao on the way, a coffee plantation with Luwak, a tangle of cables on a pole and a hotel in Tegallalang like a dream.

In short

We drive from Amed towards Ubud, with Bakpao as a snack and the fancy yellow car of our always smiling driver. On the way we stop at a coffee plantation, get to know the Luwak and taste lots of different coffee and tea flavours. At the end of the day there is a hotel that looks like it is coming right out of a dream.

Country:
Indonesia
Date:
17 September 2025
Photos:
13

We grab some local snacks (Bakpao) and head towards Ubud with the fancy yellow car of our always smiling driver. Bakpao are steamed filled buns that originally come from China. Because we have our suitcases with us, we have booked a car with a driver for this stretch. Inside, the seats and the roof lining are yellow, with red quilted inserts.

Snacks and the ride in the yellow car towards Ubud · 2 photos

On the way we stop at a coffee plantation. There we get to know the “Luwak”, the animal behind the world’s most expensive coffee. The Luwak is a civet. It eats ripe coffee cherries, and the beans are later collected from its droppings, cleaned and roasted. The animal we see lies curled up in a large grey pipe, with a small red fruit in front of its snout. We also get to taste lots of different coffee and tea flavours. On the long wooden table there is a tray with small glasses and cups for this.

Coffee tasting, garden and Luwak · 3 photos

And we wonder how the electricity system in Bali actually works. On one pole very many cables come together and run off in all directions.

In Tegallalang, north of Ubud, it is partly cloudy at 29 degrees at 4 pm. Our next hotel looks like it is coming right out of a dream. Two small black bowls with a dark green drink and mint leaves stand on a wooden board, next to two small bites, each with a piece of strawberry. At the edge stands a small dark pot with orange flowers. A paved courtyard lies between tropical plants, with a house behind it that has a grey roof and a round archway. The pool has a wooden deck with sun loungers, and yellow lanterns glow in the dusk. Between the buildings a small rice field with young plants is growing.

The hotel in Tegallalang with courtyard, pool and small rice field · 4 photos

In the evening two crispy rolls with herbs and edible flowers sit on the black table, with a brown dipping sauce and a glass with ice, mint and a piece of yellow fruit on a wooden skewer. Afterwards comes a piece of chocolate cake with strawberries, mint, a chocolate lattice and a scoop of ice cream.

Dinner with crispy rolls and chocolate cake · 2 photos

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